A Chart of Great Value

Essential Treasures From

Old Manuals

Most manuals have a cylinder chart but this specific chart is the best. It is reproduced in only a few manuals. It is in the Legare 47 manual on page 3 and the Creelman manual on page 14. My Mom’s Aunt Opal used this chart for marking every cylinder and after paying close attention to what it said, I understood why. From the toe being shaped on the back to pinpointing that sweet spot to hang a V- heel weight it will save the wise cranker time and many a dropped stitch.

My “No-Sew” sock method would not work as well without this chart. When you start and stop your toe shaping [1. and 2.] over the needles recommended at [A] and add just one more needle after the ½ mark [B. and D.] at the start and at the end, your toe will reach easily to hang on the other side even on the 54 needle cylinder. Doing the no-sew-toe on the back position makes shaping and hanging the toe to the front, easy to see.

Starting heel shaping two to five needles behind the ½ mark at [5. - 6.] makes for a very shapely 90 degree heel at C ~ [3. and 4. ] that fits. This is especially true when using a thin Lycra core cotton 8/1 0r 10/1 for stretchy cotton summer socks. You will not have any of those shaping holes if on the increase you go back to just the 1/2 mark and use the 1- up - 2 down shuffle no warp method for shaping [ first post].

When you set that V-heel fork ¾ “ from the top at [a. and b.] you will only need to reposition to that same point one more time at the start of shaping increase. You will never want to go back to the hunt-to-hang method again.

The Creelman drafters who made this cylinder chart understood the most efficient way to get the best results out of each cylinder. In this demanding age Crankers often have just a few precious hours to give to their craft so the details and specifics that produce good socks from the start are all the more essential for today's sock makers.

Keep Cranking until the next Post on.......... CSM intensive care

Sock Machine Ten question check list

                              First 10 Questions

        Making Assessments of CSMs purchased to Make Socks

If this is your first machine, it is best to ask for help regarding names and identification of parts or purchase a Video of this process at coloradocranker@q.com

Out of the box, even in a picture, a lot can be discovered about an old sock machine before you crank. If at first glance, the machine appears whole, solid and complete, do this 10-question checklist. To do this exam, set the machine base securely on the end of any stable table. No needles or yarn needed in this early inspection.

1. Are all major parts present and do all the screws appear to fit such that they are original. Missing screws or poorly fitting screws suggest make-do repair fixes. Most screws can and should be replaced with new stainless steel if the machine is to be a reliable sock Cranker.

2. Does crank handle move straight, fit into all gears and are all gear teeth present. One missing tooth may not matter, the test is if it cranks around without slipping. If not the fix requires welding.

3. Will gear ring move freely under the shell, not dragging the shell with it when changing directions? This is an essential function in order to shape sock heels; shell dragging is a sign of major ware or misshaped parts. Requires machining to eliminate.

4. Is missing and dulled paint evenly distributed? If not, parts may not be original to each other. This is especially true if the ribber arm shows obvious differences.

5. What is the ware area on the needle side of the yarn guide feeder? Any sign of deep grooves,chips or re-shaping of the shaft. This would suggest the last user did not know the setting for it or the needles are not rising high enough and the yarn feeder is being repositioned to compensate. The fix is to re-shape the guide to standard or purchase new one and test for needle height after cylinder slots are cleaned. If it is an issue of needle height, this will require machining to fix. Yarn guide shape height and distance from needles is essential to cranking knit and rib reliably with no dropped stitches.

6. If it is a Legare/Creelman type sock machine what is the ware on side came riser and gear stop? Small wear points and no breaks or chips suggest good movement and limited rough use.

7. Any sign of welds, cracks or breaks? These may limit how you can refurbish your machine. Epoxy welds may not hold up to heat set powder coat paint.

8. Is there more than a light patina of rust on visible bare metal? If so it may require deep cleaning using glass bead blasting or use of fine sand and buffing to make them safe and clean enough for making light colored or white socks.

9. How much ware is on the screw heads of the 4 most adjusted screws? These are the yarn guide, cylinder attachment, crankshaft and screw to adjust ribber height.

10. Are adjustable parts moderately snug fitting? Too much play may make it hard to hold a setting and is suggestive of excessive wear or repair using non-standard parts. For example, if the pointer for the stitch dial is broken, missing or made of a non standard replacement part the V-cam will be affected, causing clanking noise and needle jams.  Very tight or no movement at all indicates they may need extra time and great care getting them to move properly.

Few sock machines with major parts intact are un-repairable. If you do not have the tools or the knowledge to make a needed repair, just ask. Cankers are supportive of each others efforts to bring life back into these wonderful old machines.

If you need advice, parts or repairs contact coloradocranker@q.com

                         Crank Happy